Cloud Watchers

A hand in the clouds?

One of our Texas Mountain Trail board members in El Paso, Herb Price, has a great view of the sky above the Franklin Mountains from his home.  From time to time, he sends photos of El Paso's magnificent sunsets to share with all of you.  This time, he took a great photo of...what's that?  A hand pointing to the sky?  We take it as a reminder to spend a few moments every day to look at the sky and take in the beauty!

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT!
Here's one of our cycle-friendly hotel properties to consider when you're heading to Big Bend, Big Bend Resorts and Adventures!  We stayed there during our recent trip to the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest, and yes, you can park your bikes in the room overnight!  The convenient location is 12 miles from Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center, 5 miles from Terlingua Ghost Town and a couple of miles from the western entrance to Big Bend National Park.

Riding to McGuirk's Dream, Part 1

TPWD's (and TMT board member) Linda Hedges
leads an interpretive hike to Casa Contrabando
during the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest

Recently, we participated in the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest down in Lajitas and Big Bend Ranch State Park.  We took the Festival's Contrabando Ride, 11+ miles in the state park, led by volunteers and knowledgable TPWD interpreters.  We headed north from Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center on Hwy 170, the River Road, up single and double-track trails into Big Bend Ranch State Park.  Halfway through our ride, we ended up at Contrabando Water Hole and the ruins of H.W. McGuirk's stone house from the late 1890s.

From TPWD:

"H.W. McGuirk began ranching in the area around 1885.  He expanded operations and moved his headquarters here to Contrabando Waterhole about 12 years later.   But water contamination in the spring, possibly poisoning, soon forced him to abandon this site and move to the Rio Grande, where he founded the community of Lajitas.



fireplace in the stone house ruin

Begun sometime during the late 1890s, the dwelling at Contrabando Waterhole began as a "patio"--a cleared area enclosed by a short, stacked stone wall.  The building was constructed within these defining perimeter walls, and consisted of 4 rooms built over the course of at least two building campaigns.  Both the original dwelling and the attached addition emply the same mazonry wall construction techniques, utilizing locally-collected native Boquillas flagstone in a random-laid patter, with a minimum of earth mortar used to stabilize the walls. 

 

There is evidence that, as the structure fell to ruin, efforts were made to reconstruct some of the walls using smaller rocks, tightly packed.  Though very little of the wood framing remains, one can see the location of the window and door openings."  

 

We loved visiting the Stone House ruin
on the Contrabando ride during the
Chihuhuan Desert Bike Fest.
Thanks to all, including Stonewear
Designs, for your rugged Echo Top!

Our BIG BIG thanks to all involved putting on the Festival, from TPWD and its staff from Big Bend Ranch State Park, Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center, and from across the state, Desert Sports, Big Bend Trail Alliance and many other dedicated volunteers and willing organizations.

 

 

When you say, "You'll go back in time," how far back is that?

 

 

Any traveler to the region will tell you:

 

We've got--

 

Wide Open Spaces
Freedom

Frontier

 

And not many people---

 

A lone participant in the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest
contemplates the ruins of a candellia factory in
Big Bend Ranch State Park

Our population density is VERY low.. the latest census in Brewster County (where Big Bend National Park, Terlingua, Alpine and Marathon are located) counted 1.49 people per square mile. 

 

In Presidio County (Marfa, Shafter and Presidio), there are 2.03 people per square mile. 

 

And in Jeff Davis County (Fort Davis and Valentine) there are 1.03 people per square mile.

 

And those numbers, by a simple measure used by the federal government (fewer than six people per square mile) is FRONTIER.

 

How long has it been since your hometown has been "frontier," or this sparsely populated?

 

So you live in Austin?  When was the last time Travis County had a comparable level of population density? Answer:  The earliest census numbers we could find were in 1850, and by that time, Travis County had 3.07 people per square mile.

 

Dallas? Dallas County had 1.75 people per square mile by 1860, the first census number we could find; and by 1870, it was 7.77 people per square mile.

 

San Antonio? Bexar County already had 4.81 people per square mile by 1850.

 

So when you're looking at landscapes like ours, you're looking at a time long before there were cars to take us around.  That's why we love events that put us out in the landscape, and why we think getting around by horse, by foot, or by bike gives you a better idea of what the "frontier" is all about.

Last weekend, riders in the Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest were treated to "epic" rides in Big Bend Ranch State Park, and because of the involvement of many volunteers and TPWD interpretive staff, they learned quite a bit about our land and our history.

Participants in one of the Friday rides line up at
Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center

Riders on the Contrabando trail complex in
Big Bend Ranch State Park

Visit the Barton Warnock Center, Learn all about Big Bend!

One of the great places to learn about Big Bend is the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center near Lajitas on the River Road, Hwy 170.  Stop in to get information about the region, or arrange for your entry to Big Bend Ranch State Park.

From the Center's website:

"Barton Warnock Visitor Center serves as the eastern visitor center for Big Bend Ranch State Park and is located near Lajitas. Permits for backpacking and camping (no hookups) at Big Bend Ranch State Park can be obtained at Barton Warnock or at Fort Leaton State Historic Site, the western visitor center for the park. Visitors can also purchase river-use permits, licenses, and information about the Big Bend region.

The new, renovated Interpretive Center, "Una Tierra - One Land," is the fruit of an international partnership effort of State and National park experts in Texas and the Mexican states of Coahuila and Chihuahua. The vast majority of information, including captions and text, is presented in both English and Spanish.
The Center presents an archeological, historical, and natural history profile of the Big Bend region. It houses a book store and gift shop. The book store includes guides for area interest, as well as books on the history and the natural environment of the Big Bend Region. The gift shop has a variety of T-shirts, post cards, and souvenirs."

12 Days of Christmas: Many Days of Adventure and Fun with the Texas State Parks Pass

Want room all to yourself?  View from a campsite at Big Bend Ranch State Park

The lovely interior of Fort Davis State Park's Indian Lodge, a CCC-built facility

Spring bloom of poppies at Franklin Mountains State Park

Another TERRIFIC buy for your holiday shopping that reaps benefit all year long...a Texas State Parks Pass, so you can enjoy visiting our wonderful Texas Mountain Trail region state parks!

Here's a link to information and instructions for purchasing your pass!

Our Texas Mountain Trail regional state parks!  Visit one soon!
Franklin Mountains State Park
Wyler Aerial Tramway
Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site
Fort Leaton State Historic Site
Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center
Big Bend Ranch State Park
Davis Mountain State Park (with Indian Lodge)
and just outside our region, but we'll claim it!  Balmorhea State Park

Give the gift of adventure and fun this holiday season with a state parks pass!

One of the best scenic drives anywhere, and a darn good bike ride too!

The River Road between Presidio and Terlingua is one of Texas' and the nation's best scenic drives.  Mountain, desert, and river views at every turn, this route is one to savor.  You can stop at several locations to stretch your legs at Big Bend Ranch State Park trailheads, Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center, Fort Leaton, or Lajitas.  FM170 is one of the best!

Fort Leaton

Fort Leaton, just east of Presidio, is a great place to go in the dead of winter.  Just off the Rio Grande, the temperatures are generally quite comfortable and warmer than at the higher elevations in the region.  From the TPWD website:  " Fort Leaton State Historic Site, consisting of 23.4 acres, five of which are the site of a pioneer trading post, is located in Presidio County. The park was acquired December 8, 1967, by deed from a private owner and was opened to the public in 1978.
In 1848, Ben Leaton built a fortified adobe trading post known as Fort Leaton. He dominated border trade with the Apache and Comanche Indians before he died in 1851. In 1936, the Texas Centennial Commission placed a marker at the site."

In addition to visiting this beautiful adobe structure--which is a photographer's dream--Fort Leaton (along with the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center) is a place you can buy backpacking and camping permits for Big Bend Ranch State Park. 

Yes, you should stop.....

If you're traveling on the River Road near Big Bend, there's a place you really need to stop and explore:  Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center.  The humble little building serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park and is a regional information center. It is there to introduce the Big Bend area to the traveler and to encourage the preservation of the diverse natural and cultural resources, including adjacent areas in Mexico. The center has interpretive exhibits, a biological gallery, photo exhibit, library, regional artifacts, desert gardens and picnic areas.

River Trips in Big Bend

One of the favorite adventures open to Big Bend visitors is a river trip.  With the summer rains, the river is often READY for river-runners this time of year. The National Park has a comprehensive webpage with links to pages with outfitter contacts and important safety information.

We like to recommend two places to Big Bend visitors:  Museum of the Big Bend in Alpine and Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center on the River Road.  Combined, they give you a great introduction to the region:  history, culture, and natural history.

Thanks to Randy Mallory and the Texas Historical Commission for this photo!

Closed Canyon

A spectacular and short hike is a favorite of travelers heading to Big Bend Ranch State Park between Big Bend National Park and Presidio. The trailhead is easy to access, along Hwy 170. Check in at the Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center or Fort Leaton for more information, or click here.

For more information on hiking in the Texas Mountain Trail region, visit: www.texasmountaintrail.com/hike