The Murals of Segundo Barrio by Rob Hodges

South of downtown, ending at the U.S.-Mexico border, is El Paso’s Segundo Barrio district. It reminds me of any number of Central American cities—crumbling brick facades are painted assorted bright colors; business signs and overheard conversations are in Spanish; the ubiquitous flea market is not just a weekend event; a grand cathedral spans most of a city block; and colorful murals liven the street scene.

Double-click on image
for a closer look!

I went to the district on a tour of Museo Urbano, a tiny museum in a historically significant building that tells the fascinating history of Segundo Barrio. Prior to visiting, I had been most interested in seeing the building since it used to be a boarding house occupied by Henry O. Flipper from 1919–20. I won’t go into the intriguing details of Flipper’s life—especially since it’s not a main focus of the museum—but his story is definitely worth exploring, and some historical sites associated with him are located within the Texas Mountain Trail Region.

Another interesting historical figure who does take center stage at Museo Urbano is the young, Mexican healer/revolutionary, Teresita Urrea, who also lived there. The museum tells her compelling story through photographs, quotes, and a room full of the traditional products and herbs of a curandera (healer). 

But what reminds me of Central America lies behind the museum. A small alley is full of vivid and surreal murals portraying various aspects of the community’s heritage, including music, leaders, oppression, and triumphs. Apparently, the museum commissioned the first mural of musicians, and community members spontaneously responded by filling the alley with subjects of importance to them.

Double-click for
a closer look!

Down the street from the museum is the stately Sacred Heart Church, and more murals can be found around the corner on East Father Rahm Avenue. Street art can be found throughout the world, but the quantity, prominence and styles—typically surrealist or magical realist with lots of religious imagery—is what reminds me so much of Central America. I’ve seen similar murals in León, Nicaragua; Panama City, Panama; Liberia, Costa Rica; and small towns around Lago de Atitlan in Guatemala. It’s nice to find some of that flavor in the U.S.

Speaking of flavor, I would be remiss not to mention fantastic neighborhood restaurant, New City Grill. Located on South Mesa Street and East Third Avenue, New City Grill offers an eclectic mix of Mexican, Italian, and American fare. Being in El Paso, I had to sample the restaurant’s take on the city’s famed chile relleno dish. The egg-breaded, deep-fried, stuffed-pepper-smothered-in-red-sauce did not disappoint, and the raspberry lemonade was a memorable accompaniment.

Rob Hodges is a freelance writer and editor whose work has appeared in such diverse publications as the Houston Chronicle, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Austin Monthly, Edible Austin, South American Explorer, national meetings magazines, and Texas Historical Commission travel guides. Having traveled through about 30 countries on five continents, and about 40 states in the U.S., he can say with authority that Texas is a great place to live. His home is about a mile from the Capitol in Austin, where he lives with wife, Kate, and daughter, Zadie.  His work can be seen at robhodges.com.

Size Matters by Rob Hodges

What I love about Guadalupe Mountains National Park is the size. As national parks go, it’s on the small side at 86,416 acres. It has 15 hiking trails totaling about 85 miles. According to the National Park Service, there were 192,210 visitors in 2010.

By comparison, Great Smoky Mountains National Park had 9.4 million visitors last year; Grand Canyon National Park had 4.4 million.

Looking closer to home, here are the numbers for the Guadalupe’s neighbor to the south: in 2010, 372,330 people visited the 801,163-acre Big Bend National Park. Many of them hiked the roughly 50 trails that comprise the park’s 203 miles of maintained trails.

I’m not sure there is a good reason to compare Big Bend and Guadalupe Mountains national parks, but it’s hard for me not to think of them as a set. I know their mountains are from entirely different geological eras, and they’re separated by about 250 miles. But Far West Texas’ two national parks both have rugged mountains set in the Chihuahuan Desert—and they both provide world-class scenery and marvelous seclusion.

Both of my visits to the Guadalupe Mountains have been brief, weekend trips. But because of the size, I’ve been able to see and do a lot. Both times, it was remarkably easy to get a camping site at the self-registration Pine Springs campground. Popular hiking trails such as McKittrick Canyon and Devil’s Hall were nearly deserted, and even the well-traveled Guadalupe Peak trail up to the state’s highest point (8,749 feet) had few hikers. During that trek, we got caught in a major hailstorm on the way down, which actually provided a welcome respite from the heat.

With Big Bend, you’re barely scratching the surface in two days. The same could surely be said for the Guadalupe Mountains, but it feels cozy being a much smaller and equally spectacular surface. Pick a couple days, scratch the surface, and sniff out adventure. 

Rob Hodges is a freelance writer and editor whose work has appeared in such diverse publications as the Houston Chronicle, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Austin Monthly, Edible Austin, South American Explorer, national meetings magazines, and Texas Historical Commission travel guides. Having traveled through about 30 countries on five continents, and about 40 states in the U.S., he can say with authority that Texas is a great place to live. His home is about a mile from the Capitol in Austin, where he lives with wife, Kate, and daughter, Zadie. His work can be seen at robhodges.com

Head Over Heels by Rob Hodges

“If you flip, be sure to catch the boat. You don’t want to lose all your food and gear. ‘Cuz you might not see someone for days, and we might not find you. You’ll be on your own.”

That warning from the owner of a now-defunct outfitter company sloshed through my waterlogged brain as I frantically swam after the canoe slipping away in the swift current of the Rio Grande.

The prescient advice had been imparted only an hour previously as the adventure-tour operator dropped my friend Justin and me near the entrance to Colorado Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park in October 2003. While unloading the canoe and supplies from the back of the truck, the outfitter asked an unnerving question.

“Y’all do have whitewater experience, right?”

There was an awkward silence as Justin shot me a quick, concerned glance.

“Uh, no,” I stammered, somewhat indignantly. “I told you that on the phone a month ago when I made the reservation. I told you we had plenty of flatwater experience, but no whitewater. You said that was no problem.”

Then it was the owner’s turn for a moment of silence and concern. A very long, stress-inducing moment passed while her eyes darted back and forth, sizing us up. Finally she shrugged and muttered, “Well, I s’pose y’all be all right.” She continued unloading the truck.

We had been preparing to embark on a multi-day canoe trip through the rough backcountry of the Big Bend. It was the first visit to the region for each of us. The plan was to drift without a guide through the canyons carved by the Rio Grande, camping wherever we wanted on either side of the U.S.-Mexico border, and ending on Day Four by meeting the operator a few miles past the exit of Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park. Then, we were going to continue the adventure with a three-day backpacking trek and more primitive camping.

In theory, it should have been a fairly easy intro to whitewater for two able-bodied paddlers. But two weeks prior to our trip, the region had experienced its most rainfall in 10 years. The Rio Grande was racing, and numerous sections that would normally provide only mild bumps were intense Class III rapids—which are quite formidable in a canoe.

“You’re probably going to get wet. If you do find yourself swimming, don’t panic,” said the outfitter before giving her aforementioned advice about catching the canoe.

Our food, tent, stove, and other supplies were in waterproof dry bags strapped to the canoe. The only thing in jeopardy if we lost the boat was us.

After slipping into the current and beginning our journey, it only took 45 minutes to encounter the first major rapids that tossed us into the river. Fortunately, I was able to reach the canoe once the rapids ended, but we no longer had the paper maps of the river I had been holding, which noted landmarks, ideal camping spots, and the Day-Four rendezvous point. We felt defeated. Neither of us knew why the boat had flipped. It had happened so fast. Knowing we faced countless more rapids—without a map—did not inspire confidence.

But it in the end, it turned out fine, and the uncertainty only added to the adventure. When we had gone over the maps with the outfitter, I had paid close attention, so certain landmarks looked familiar when we encountered them.

Over the course of that week, I paddled and hiked and fell in love with the Big Bend landscape. I climbed up onto the Mesa de Anguila, hiked around that desolate plateau with panoramic views, and peered over the edge into Santa Elena Canyon. I stashed a couple gallons of water near the Homer Wilson Ranch House for use during our three-day trek. I watched a sunset intensify the crimson and orange hues of Red Rock Canyon along the Blue Creek Trail. I witnessed another remarkable sunset from what is probably the most scenic vista in Texas: the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains, which is high above the undulating Chihuahuan Desert floor that stretches for miles and miles into Mexico. And I only involuntarily fell into the Rio Grande once more, while navigating the boulder maze of the Class IV rapids known as the Rock Slide.

It was the perfect Far West Texas adventure, and just what I needed to choose a new favorite part of the state. Technically, I had been to Far West Texas many times before, but it had always been passing through en route to some other destination such as New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona or California. Now I knew my home state had a special place on par with any grand setting those other states had to offer. I couldn’t wait to return.

Whitewater rafting should be taken seriously. The dangers of the river and the harsh Big Bend landscape are very real. Prior to considering any paddling trip in the region, consult a reputable local outfitter such as Far Flung Outdoor Center, Desert Sports, Big Bend River Tours or Big Bend Expeditions.

Rob Hodges is a freelance writer and editor whose work has appeared in such diverse publications as the Houston Chronicle, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Austin Monthly, Edible Austin, South American Explorer, national meetings magazines, and Texas Historical Commission travel guides. Having traveled through about 30 countries on five continents, and about 40 states in the U.S., he can say with authority that Texas is a great place to live. His home is about a mile from the Capitol in Austin, where he lives with wife, Kate, and daughter, Zadie.  His work can be seen at robhodges.com.

Stay tuned all week!  Rob will be sharing photos and stories from his trips to the Texas Mountain Trail region through Friday!

Monarch Butterfly at Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and Botanical Gardens

Some folks might think our region was all dried and burnt up if they just followed the news, but they'd be terribly wrong!  Sure, we're experiencing drought like most of the rest of Texas, but we're also alive and flowering (as you can see in the video), and even Fort Davis, where this was shot (at the botanical gardens at Fort Davis' Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center) is greening up nicely.  To see it for yourself, just page down to see Saturday's entry.

The garden's flowers were full of butterflies and insects, busy pollinating yesterday morning...take a look! 

The area's hiking trails are all open, as are the parks and other regional attractions....plan to take a visit to the Texas Mountains soon!

For travel information, visit www.texasmountaintrail.com

In April, this looked dead, black, burnt. Not now!

The last couple of month's we've enjoyed driving on Hwy 17 north of Marfa, heading to Fort Davis.  After the April 9 Rock House fire, this route was burned black.  Now that we've had rain, the green regrowth is evident everywhere!  All the places visitors enjoy are open and ready, too!  The regrowth is definitely occurring in earnest!

Big Bend's South Rim at Sunset

This beautiful image was taken atop the Chisos on one of our signature Texas Mountain hikes, Big Bend's South Rim.  You can see far into Mexico....beautiful!  It was sent to us by veteran guide, trip leader and author, Jim Glendinning.  He is the author of Adventures in the Big Bend, now it its fourth edition.  A Scottish native, Jim has been a resident of the region for many years.  He's a exemplary tour organizer and guide, taking small groups on trips to Big Bend, Scotland and Mexico. Jim and his books are wonderful resources for travelers...check them out!

Big Bend National Park's website link

Thanks, Jim, for sharing this beautiful photo--taken just 10 days ago at sunset--with us all!

Beauty on the way there

This week we headed to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, and the drive reminded us just how BEAUTIFUL the ride is north from Van Horn.  Hwy 54 starts at I-10 in Van Horn and runs directly north, right to the national park.  It is a spectacular 55 miles!

The road is also our El Cap to El Cap Heritage Bike Ride, read more about it here!

Wildlife studies at one of our gateways--Balmorhea State Park with Texas Master Naturalists

A softshell turtle from the canal

Double-click on any of these photos for a closer view!

Dr. Chris Ritzi, of Sul Ross State University presented an overview of the insect world and led us on our own specimen collecting adventure

Fresh water crayfish, the endangered Comanche Springs pupfish, and other aquatic life from the canal at Balmorhea State Park

Last weekend, we spent time at one of our gateway attractions, Balmorhea State Park, just outside our region.  We were there with the Tierra Grande Chapter of the Texas Master Naturalists, learning about ichythology, ecological concepts and soils, and entomology, and the issues and species in our region.  After a lecture on the various species of bees, beetles and other insect life, Sul Ross State University's Dr. Chris Ritzi, gave us each an insect net and showed us how to capture and inspect individual species.

We highly recommend the Texas Master Naturalist Program for anyone who wants to learn about nature in their own region.  And we recommend you take a stroll down the canals and to the cienega, on your next visit to Balmorhea State Park.

Just outside our region: Balmorhea State Park

Many people make a stop just outside our region, on their way to the Texas Mountains.  Balmorhea State Park is one of the most visited state parks, largely because of the unusual pool.  This is the Balmorhea State Park most people recognize...the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) made pool. 

The park's website says:
"the park's main attraction is a large (77,053 sq. ft.) artesian spring pool that is open daily and fed by San Solomon Springs. The springs also fill a 'cienega' (desert wetland) and the canals of a refugium, home to endangered species of fish, assorted invertebrates, and turtles. The pool differs from most public pools in several respects: the 1 3/4-acre size, the 25-foot depth and the 72 to 76 degree constant temperature. It also has a variety of aquatic life in its clear waters. With a capacity of more than 3 1/2 million gallons, the pool has plenty of room for swimmers, while offering a unique setting for scuba and skin diving." 

On our recent visit, we swam in the pool, but we also spent time exploring the canals and the cienega. We encourage you to do that too, on your next visit.


Tomorrow, more photos of the cienega, catching insects with the Tierra Grande Chapter of the Texas Master Naturalists and water life!

Honoring the Buffalo Soldiers, Concordia Cemetery in El Paso

One of the best stories and most distinguished histories coming out of our region is that of the Buffalo Solider. 
Many visitors to our region appreciate Fort Davis National Historic Site's connection to Buffalo Soldiers.  Yet our history goes beyond Fort Davis.

Enthusiastic volunteers keep the legacy of the Buffalo Soldiers alive elsewhere.  For example, different groups of volunteers have worked together in El Paso to honor the soldiers.  One of the best places to see their work is in Concordia Cemetery in the shadow of the Franklin Mountains in the center of the city.  Click here to see the website of the Buffalo Soldiers, Donnie W. Brown Chapter, 9th & 10th (Horse) Cavalry Association of El Paso, Texas.


Here's a quote from their website:  "When the Plains Indians first saw the men of the 10th Cavalry wearing with their dark skins, curly hair and wearing fur overcoats they referred to them as "Buffalo Soldiers." The nickname "Buffalo Soldiers" was originally given to the 10th Cavalry by Cheyenne warriors out of respect for their fierce fighting in 1867. The Cheyenne Native American term used was actually "Wild Buffaloes", which was translated to "Buffalo Soldiers." In time, all African American Soldiers became known as "Buffalo Soldiers." Despite second-class treatment these soldiers made up first-rate regiments of the highest caliber and had the lowest desertion rate in the Army."
 
True West magazine named Concordia Cemetery one of the "Best Preserved Gravesites in the West," and that's because of the countless hours put in by volunteers to preserve the cemetery and interpret the stories of the people of El Paso.  An entire section of the cemetery is dedicated to the graves and the service of the Buffalo Soldiers.  Hats off to the volunteers of the Concordia Heritage Association and the Buffalo Soldiers Motorcycle Club for all their hard work!

Watch the memorial as it is built, through photos posted by the El Paso Buffalo Soliders Motorcycle Club...page down at this link!

Acres and acres to yourself--camping in Big Bend Ranch State Park

Campsite in Big Bend Ranch State Park

another view of the campsite at dawn

All the space you could possibly want...that's a hallmark of our region.  And there's few locations with wider, wilder places than Big Bend Ranch State Park.  Camping is truly special.  Here's a link to more information!

The Lost Colony exhibit at Alpine's Museum of the Big Bend

Davis Mountains, Watercolor, 1922, 19 X 19, Mabel Vandiver
Fort Hays State University Collection, Hays Kansas

Mabel Vandiver

Mabel Vandiver, 1886-1991, taught at Sul Ross from 1922 to 1925. After leaving, she joined the staff at Fort Hays State College in Hays, Kansas, in 1933. She became head of the Art Department in 1941 through 1951, and retired from the school in 1954. A consummate artist, she worked in all media, including at the age of ninety-nine experimenting with oil crayon.

Museum of the Big Bend is hosting a major retrospective of early Texas artists and their students who were at Sul Ross State University. The Lost Colony: Texas Regionalist Paintings surveys the first 30 years of the Art Department and the establishment of an Art Colony at the school. This Art Colony was active from 1932 to 1950.

 

The Art Colony began in 1932 when San Antonio native, Julius Woeltz was hired to head the Art Department. He immediately started an Art Colony and chose his former art instructor, Xavier Gonzalez, as the instructor. That first Art Colony was based out of Kokernot Lodge in Alpine, Texas.

 

The Museum of the Big Bend is located on the campus of Sul Ross State University in Alpine, Texas.  Operating hours are Tuesday through Saturday, 9am to 5pm and Sunday, 1 to 5pm.  Admission is free. Donations are gratefully accepted. Free parking.

Dan Baeza Week Concludes!

We've been enjoying the work of Van Horn native, Dan Baeza, all week long.  His eye for our landscape and life in Far West Texas helps us all see our high desert land just a little bit better.  Please head on over to his website, here, to see more of his work.   Thank you for sharing your work, Dan!

Ranchland

We're featuring the new work of Van Horn native, Dan Baeza, this week.  Dan finds inspiration from our Far West Texas landscape, even though he is studying at Texas A&M University- Commerce in Commerce.  Lovely!

The lovely green of agave

We're featuring the work of Van Horn native, Dan Baeza, all this week.  He's just launched a new website, featuring his work.  Click here to see more!

Dan Baeza week continues!

A Van Horn native, Dan Baeza knows horses and mountain landscapes.  Dan is a student in his junior year at Texas A&M University- Commerce in Commerce, Texas.  We're featuring his work all week!  We love this view of horses and landscape...touching and beautiful!  Click here to see other images on his website!

Far West Texas Roadside by Dan Baeza

We enjoyed his work before on this blog, so we were delighted to hear that Dan Baeza had more images to share with you all!   Dan is from Van Horn, is studying at Texas A&M University- Commerce in Commerce, Texas and is in his junior year.  He finds much of his inspiration in the far West Texas region!

Click here to see images on his website, and stay tuned right here for his images all week!

Dawn at Big Bend Ranch State Park

When you're in Big Bend Ranch State Park, the landscape and the sky fuse, especially at sunrise and sunset.  Lots of beautiful campsites; hiking, mountain biking, and horse trails to enjoy!

Watching the hummingbirds at the feeder

All over the region, the hummingbirds are still coming to the feeders!



Double-click on any of these to get a closer view!



The hummers are still visiting feeders in the region.  Here are a few of our favorite places to see them!
Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center, outside Fort Davis
Mountain Trails Lodge and Expedition Center outside Fort Davis (formerly Davis Mountains Education Center)
McIvor Center, Davis Mountains Preserve, outside Fort Davis
Dog Canyon Visitor Center, Guadalupe Mountains National Park
All these places are on the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail! 

Do you have a favorite places to see hummingbirds in Far West Texas in the Texas Mountain Trail region?  Let us know!

Our float down the Rio Grande, through Big Bend Ranch State Park with Big Bend River Tours!

All week we've been featuring our recent one-day Saddle/Paddle tour with Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours down on the Rio Grande in Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Some of us like to travel solo.  Others like to take a tour...and when you've got a good guide, they can definitely add value to your experience.  This was the case with Janelle, our "saddle" guide, and with John, our "paddle" guide.

As we traveled down the river, John deftly read his charges...letting us appreciate the quiet, while pointing out interesting wildlife and geological formations along the way.  His enthusiasm for the region and for the river was infectious, and when we asked questions, his knowledged deepened our experience.  Not only could he tell us about the flora and fauna of the riverside, but he spoke knowledgably about the restaurants and nightspots in Terlingua and Study Butte--we were working up an appetite! 

All too soon, the Big Bend River Tours truck came into view, and it was time to leave the river.  We know we'll be back to enjoy another leisurely paddle when the river level is low, or a rolicking trip on a raft when the flow is higher and faster.  Either way, we'll know we'll have a terrific day.

Our thanks to both Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours, and to Janelle and John!  We'll be back!