Colorado Canyon River Access

Colorado Canyon pull-off along Hwy 170, the scenic River Road, between Presidio and Lajitas is a favorite river access site, but is also a great place to pull off the road and enjoy the surroundings.

This section of the road runs through Big Bend Ranch State Park, which says this about Colorado Canyon:

"The Rio Grande/Rio Bravo corridor is an easily accessible area of the park for day use, including rafting, canoeing and free bank fishing. Several river access points are found within the park along F.M. 170. Colorado Canyon includes Class II and Class III rapids. This section of the river is not considered dangerous under normal flow conditions. The walls of Colorado Canyon, unlike the limestone canyons of Big Bend National Park and the Lower Canyons, are composed entirely of igneous rock. Raft trips may be arranged through local outfitters in Terlingua and Study Butte."

Information on river trips offered by area outfitters, here!

The cool shade of Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park

The Rio Grande coming
through Santa Elena Canyon

Few places are as iconic of the region as Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park, and this time of year visitors flock to the trail, and to the river to experience it for themselves.


Hiking information from the park's website:


Santa Elena Canyon Trail

Difficulty: Moderate; Distance: 1.7 miles round trip
Begins at terminus of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
This trail leads into the stunning Santa Elena Canyon. After crossing Terlingua Creek, the trail ascends on paved steps to a vista, then descends back to the water's edge, continuing into the canyon until the canyon walls meet the water. A Big Bend classic. Trail is impassable when Terlingua Creek floods.

Some like to head to the river instead of the trail to explore Santa Elena Canyon and the Rio Grande as it runs through Big Bend.  Click here to see a list of river outfitters on the Visit Big Bend website.

We recommend saving this hike for the last light of the day.  Plan to complete your hike as the sunlight wanes, for great shadows and great light.

The Sounds of Big Bend

View from a rock shelter in
Big Bend Ranch State Park

One of the great joys of visiting our region isn't discussed much, because, frankly, it is hard to convey.  When you're here, if you let yourself stop a few minutes and concentrate, you can experience absolute  quiet.  What you see in our landscape are unspoiled vistas, but what you HEAR--because we are so remote--is what early man heard, what the Apache and Comanche heard, what Cabeza de Vaca heard, what the early settlers heard as they moved through our region.

We were reminded of this when we heard a podcast by "How Sound" about the sounds of Elizabethan England.  It is worth a listen in that it forces you to think about the sound of today's world, and the sounds we've lost from the past.  If there is a place in Texas to reclaim the sounds of the past, of the true frontier, it is in our region. 

Santa Elena Canyon
Big Bend National Park

We offer a private wilderness experience, trails to hike where you see no one for many minutes (and perhaps hours), so it is easier here....to stop and listen to the silence.  Maybe you'll hear your heart beat, maybe you'll hear a rock tumble as an animal scampers about, maybe you'll hear the wind swell and then wane.

This is why we often advise people to explore the region by bicycle:  you're out in the open, not protected by your car.  There's no metal box to divide you from the land. 

Metate left near rock shelter in
Big Bend Ranch State Park

And when you happen upon remnants of early cultures in Big Bend, take a few minutes to experience the sound of their world as they did. 

What were the sounds of grain being ground in the metate at the rock shelters? 

What were the sounds of rock art being created? 

Rock art in Big Bend Ranch State Park

What were the bird songs?

What was the sound of the Rio Grande, lapping against the rock canyons?

Take a river trip and experience it yourself.  And a hike.  Have a great time in the Big Bend of Texas.

Colorado Canyon, Along the River Road

Colorado Canyon pull-off along Hwy 170, the scenic River Road, between Presidio and Lajitas is a favorite river access site, but is also a great place to pull off the road and enjoy the surroundings.

This section of the road runs through Big Bend Ranch State Park, which says this about Colorado Canyon:

"The Rio Grande/Rio Bravo corridor is an easily accessible area of the park for day use, including rafting, canoeing and free bank fishing. Several river access points are found within the park along F.M. 170. Colorado Canyon includes Class II and Class III rapids. This section of the river is not considered dangerous under normal flow conditions. The walls of Colorado Canyon, unlike the limestone canyons of Big Bend National Park and the Lower Canyons, are composed entirely of igneous rock. Raft trips may be arranged through local outfitters in Terlingua and Study Butte."

Information on river trips offered by area outfitters, here!

The River is UP! Now's a great time for a river trip!

When we took our trip on the Rio Grande last summer, the water was down and so we had a nice slow relaxing float in a canoe.  It was GREAT (big thanks to Big Bend River Tours!), but many of you want a faster trip with wilder water.  We received word that water is being released into the river so starting July 15 or 16 and extending for 8 days or so, the water will be UP and faster than normal.  So now's a great time to book a trip, or if you're already in the area, extend your visit another day. 

Information on river trips and outfitters in the Terlingua area is located on the Visit Big Bend site.

Saddle/Paddle Adventure

Now's a great time to book adventures with outfitters in the Big Bend region, for a summer getaway or a fall excursion to our wild lands.  We've been reminiscing about a Saddle/Paddle trip we took with Lajitas Stables last summer.

Want to connect with your own adventure, whether a river trip or horseback riding, a jeep or ATV trip or mountain biking?  Visit Big Bend has a page of local outfitters and ideas for adventures in the Terlingua/Study Butte/Lajitas area.

Santa Elena Canyon by Dennis McElveen

We’re excited to share two more spectacular views from our guest photographer, Dennis McElveen from his recent trip to Big Bend National Park.  Santa Elena Canyon is one of the most photographed places in the park, and Dennis captured the area beautifully. 

Dennis shares, “You can see the distant storm in the boiling clouds above Santa Elena canyon. The thunder was rumbling, bouncing off the walls of the canyon making it even more awe-inspiring and giving one a sense of wonderment about traveling/floating in the canyon. “

The park’s website says this about the Santa Elena Canyon Trail: 

Santa Elena Canyon Trail
Difficulty: Moderate; Distance: 1.7 miles round trip
Begins at terminus of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

This trail leads into the stunning Santa Elena Canyon. After crossing Terlingua Creek, the trail ascends on paved steps to a vista, then descends back to the water's edge, continuing into the canyon until the canyon walls meet the water. A Big Bend classic. Trail is impassable when Terlingua Creek floods.

Interested in a river trip through Santa Elena Canyon?  Click here.

Interested in other regional hiking opportunities?  Visit our Texas Mountain Trail hiking page:  www.texasmountaintrail.com/hike

We thank Dennis for sharing his wonderful images this week.  Interested in seeing more of Dennis’ work?  Contact him at damfoto (at) sbcglobal (dot) net

The Shadows and the Cool of Santa Elena Canyon

Over time, the Rio Grande has cut a 1500 feet chasm in the rocks at Santa Elena, making an exciting river trip experience and a spectacular hike for Big Bend National Park visitors.  On one side, Mexico.  On the other, the United States.

The hike is rated moderate, because of steep climbs in the trail and steps along the way.  The distance is 1.7 miles roundtrip and is one of the "must do" experiences for hikers visiting the park.

This National Parks Service page talks about Santa Elena as a river trip.  Visit Big Bend has this about the Canyon, and their list of outfitters for river trips is here.

Colorado Canyon River Access

Along the River Road, between Lajitas and Presidio, there's a lovely place to stop and view the Rio Grande.  A popular "put in" place for river trips, there's few places as beautiful as this. 

Big Bend Ranch State Park's website says this about the area: 

"The Rio Grande/Rio Bravo corridor is an easily accessible area of the park for day use, including rafting, canoeing and free bank fishing. Several river access points are found within the park along FM-170. Colorado Canyon includes Class II and Class III rapids. This section of the river is not considered dangerous under normal flow conditions. The walls of Colorado Canyon, unlike the limestone canyons of Big Bend National Park and the Lower Canyons, are entirely of igneous rock."

For a list of outfitters working on the river, click here.

12 Days of Christmas: Guided Vacations

Canoeing down the Rio Grande with Big Bend River Trips

From Lajitas Stables

Sometimes the best gift is the gift of experience, discovery and travel. 

From Visit Big Bend, explore the river, or go horseback riding or mountain biking.  Guided opportunities are possible with interpretive guides, or personalized tours.  Big Bend Ranch State Park also offers the opportunity for guided adventures.

Perhaps Elderhostel (now called Road Scholar) trips are more your thing...

Any way you travel to the region...get ready for adventure and fun!

Head Over Heels by Rob Hodges

“If you flip, be sure to catch the boat. You don’t want to lose all your food and gear. ‘Cuz you might not see someone for days, and we might not find you. You’ll be on your own.”

That warning from the owner of a now-defunct outfitter company sloshed through my waterlogged brain as I frantically swam after the canoe slipping away in the swift current of the Rio Grande.

The prescient advice had been imparted only an hour previously as the adventure-tour operator dropped my friend Justin and me near the entrance to Colorado Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park in October 2003. While unloading the canoe and supplies from the back of the truck, the outfitter asked an unnerving question.

“Y’all do have whitewater experience, right?”

There was an awkward silence as Justin shot me a quick, concerned glance.

“Uh, no,” I stammered, somewhat indignantly. “I told you that on the phone a month ago when I made the reservation. I told you we had plenty of flatwater experience, but no whitewater. You said that was no problem.”

Then it was the owner’s turn for a moment of silence and concern. A very long, stress-inducing moment passed while her eyes darted back and forth, sizing us up. Finally she shrugged and muttered, “Well, I s’pose y’all be all right.” She continued unloading the truck.

We had been preparing to embark on a multi-day canoe trip through the rough backcountry of the Big Bend. It was the first visit to the region for each of us. The plan was to drift without a guide through the canyons carved by the Rio Grande, camping wherever we wanted on either side of the U.S.-Mexico border, and ending on Day Four by meeting the operator a few miles past the exit of Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park. Then, we were going to continue the adventure with a three-day backpacking trek and more primitive camping.

In theory, it should have been a fairly easy intro to whitewater for two able-bodied paddlers. But two weeks prior to our trip, the region had experienced its most rainfall in 10 years. The Rio Grande was racing, and numerous sections that would normally provide only mild bumps were intense Class III rapids—which are quite formidable in a canoe.

“You’re probably going to get wet. If you do find yourself swimming, don’t panic,” said the outfitter before giving her aforementioned advice about catching the canoe.

Our food, tent, stove, and other supplies were in waterproof dry bags strapped to the canoe. The only thing in jeopardy if we lost the boat was us.

After slipping into the current and beginning our journey, it only took 45 minutes to encounter the first major rapids that tossed us into the river. Fortunately, I was able to reach the canoe once the rapids ended, but we no longer had the paper maps of the river I had been holding, which noted landmarks, ideal camping spots, and the Day-Four rendezvous point. We felt defeated. Neither of us knew why the boat had flipped. It had happened so fast. Knowing we faced countless more rapids—without a map—did not inspire confidence.

But it in the end, it turned out fine, and the uncertainty only added to the adventure. When we had gone over the maps with the outfitter, I had paid close attention, so certain landmarks looked familiar when we encountered them.

Over the course of that week, I paddled and hiked and fell in love with the Big Bend landscape. I climbed up onto the Mesa de Anguila, hiked around that desolate plateau with panoramic views, and peered over the edge into Santa Elena Canyon. I stashed a couple gallons of water near the Homer Wilson Ranch House for use during our three-day trek. I watched a sunset intensify the crimson and orange hues of Red Rock Canyon along the Blue Creek Trail. I witnessed another remarkable sunset from what is probably the most scenic vista in Texas: the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains, which is high above the undulating Chihuahuan Desert floor that stretches for miles and miles into Mexico. And I only involuntarily fell into the Rio Grande once more, while navigating the boulder maze of the Class IV rapids known as the Rock Slide.

It was the perfect Far West Texas adventure, and just what I needed to choose a new favorite part of the state. Technically, I had been to Far West Texas many times before, but it had always been passing through en route to some other destination such as New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona or California. Now I knew my home state had a special place on par with any grand setting those other states had to offer. I couldn’t wait to return.

Whitewater rafting should be taken seriously. The dangers of the river and the harsh Big Bend landscape are very real. Prior to considering any paddling trip in the region, consult a reputable local outfitter such as Far Flung Outdoor Center, Desert Sports, Big Bend River Tours or Big Bend Expeditions.

Rob Hodges is a freelance writer and editor whose work has appeared in such diverse publications as the Houston Chronicle, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Austin Monthly, Edible Austin, South American Explorer, national meetings magazines, and Texas Historical Commission travel guides. Having traveled through about 30 countries on five continents, and about 40 states in the U.S., he can say with authority that Texas is a great place to live. His home is about a mile from the Capitol in Austin, where he lives with wife, Kate, and daughter, Zadie.  His work can be seen at robhodges.com.

Stay tuned all week!  Rob will be sharing photos and stories from his trips to the Texas Mountain Trail region through Friday!

Our float down the Rio Grande, through Big Bend Ranch State Park with Big Bend River Tours!

All week we've been featuring our recent one-day Saddle/Paddle tour with Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours down on the Rio Grande in Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Some of us like to travel solo.  Others like to take a tour...and when you've got a good guide, they can definitely add value to your experience.  This was the case with Janelle, our "saddle" guide, and with John, our "paddle" guide.

As we traveled down the river, John deftly read his charges...letting us appreciate the quiet, while pointing out interesting wildlife and geological formations along the way.  His enthusiasm for the region and for the river was infectious, and when we asked questions, his knowledged deepened our experience.  Not only could he tell us about the flora and fauna of the riverside, but he spoke knowledgably about the restaurants and nightspots in Terlingua and Study Butte--we were working up an appetite! 

All too soon, the Big Bend River Tours truck came into view, and it was time to leave the river.  We know we'll be back to enjoy another leisurely paddle when the river level is low, or a rolicking trip on a raft when the flow is higher and faster.  Either way, we'll know we'll have a terrific day.

Our thanks to both Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours, and to Janelle and John!  We'll be back!

Paddling the Rio Grande

All the hard work is done for tour participants, from unloading the canoes to getting us fitted with life jackets!

The Rio Grande was tranquil the day of our tour...
making for a relaxing trip.

All the gear is provided!

Our guide, John, of Big Bend River Tours

It seems we'd just finished our tasty roast chicken lunch in "Lunchbox Canyon" and ridden a short distance back to the stable, when it was time to say goodbye to Janelle and our horses.  We'd had a FUN morning, but it was time for our new adventure, and the folks from Big Bend River Tours were ready and waiting for us!

They took us by van to our departure point, the La Cuesta River Access of Big Bend Ranch State Park.  Because the river level was down, we were going to enjoy a gentle float down the Rio Grande by canoe.  Had we taken our adventure a few weeks earlier--just after Mexico released water into the river--we would have traveled by raft through rapids!  But, today called for a leisurely, relaxing kind of "take your time" adventure the exemplifies the Big Bend.  And we were up for that!

Every need was accommodated; all the equipment provided, even shade umbrellas if we wanted them!  All we had to do was relax and enjoy the water and the steep cliffs of the Rio Grande. 

We watched shorebirds scratch at the pebbly riverbank, turtles catching a few rays, butterflies, tiny lizards, dragonflies, and a squirrel scampering up the canyon wall.

Tomorrow, we continue our adventure on the river as part of our one day, Saddle/Paddle tour!

A stop at the top, views from our Big Bend Saddle/Paddle trip

The Rio Grande is far below our mountaintop rest

We stop for photos!

Our guide, Janelle, points out landmarks in the scenery

Our ride takes us past dramatic formations and views of the landscape

Stay tuned!  Tomorrow, we continue our Saddle/Paddle trip..and we stop in a "lunchbox canyon" for a shaded, restful, and delicious lunch!

Sneak Peek from our Saddle/Paddle trip in Big Bend

We wanted to share this preview photo from our trip on horseback and by canoe recently in Big Bend.  Stay tuned for more information about our one day adventure from Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours!

Colorado Canyon access to the Rio Grande, Big Bend Ranch State Park

Easy to get to from from the River Road, Hwy 170.....for your river fun is the Colorado Canyon river access in Big Bend Ranch State Park.  The park's website says this:

"The Rio Grande/Rio Bravo corridor is an easily accessible area of the park for day use, including rafting, canoeing and free bank fishing. Several river access points are found within the park along FM-170. Colorado Canyon includes Class II and Class III rapids. This section of the river is not considered dangerous under normal flow conditions. The walls of Colorado Canyon, unlike the limestone canyons of Big Bend National Park and the Lower Canyons, are entirely of igneous rock."

We'll report on our own canoe trip with an outfitter in the coming days...stay tuned!

Sunrise on the River Road

One of the loveliest drives anywhere is the River Road, Hwy 170 that connects Terlingua to Presidio.  The land is rugged and spectacular, but you miss an experience if you don't look up into the sky, too.  We recently took this shot on a morning drive to the Lajitas Stables.  We'll post about our saddle/paddle experience with them soon!